Costa Rica: Playa Dominical to Dota Valley, or altitude 0 to 3360 m. in one day

We left Manuel Antonio under a pale sun and after a breakfast of gallo pinto (white rice and black beans) with ham and eggs. Here is a photo of the ocean above a red corrugated iron house roof and a hedge of red hibiscus:
Manuel Antonio
Manuel Antonio

We were driving on the CN34 between Matapalo and Barú when a flock of big birds in a dirt field caught Vlad’s attention. We stopped on the side and saw dozens of black vultures. Some were perched on chopped wood, others on a fence, and the rest was in the field, packed. We approached slowly and they let us within five meters of them.

Black vulture
Black vulture

On the road again but not for long. Soon we reached Dominical. The view from the bridge that crosses the river Barú was astounding. We saw big water birds (a grey heron, an egret) and stopped, but soon we saw an aracari (a sort of toucan), and beyond the river there was the ocean and big waves.

Playa Dominical, wave
Playa Dominical, wave

We stayed two hours between the river and Playa Dominical, photographing leafcutter ants, cormorants, basilisks, a green heron, black vultures, crabs, brown pelicans. I leaned so close to the female basilisk that I can see the shape of my body reflected in her eye.

Leaf-cutter ants
Leaf-cutter ants

Cormorants taking off
Cormorants taking off

Male Jesus Christ lizard
Male Jesus Christ lizard

Female Jesus Christ lizard
Female Jesus Christ lizard

Then we drove on a track next to the river Barú, wondering if we’d see crocodiles, as there were signs warning against them. Also, openstreetmap didn’t have that track. It was about 3 km long and when it stopped, it did at the river, steeply. We parked. Soon after, a pick-up truck crossed the river. It was impressive. We walked a bit along the river. Vlad saw a little crocodile but it dived immediately and we never saw it again. I photographed a tiny brown frog, flowers, etc. and Vlad, crossing a ford in the 4WD, of course.

Tiny brown frog on dry leaf
Tiny brown frog on dry leaf

Vlad in the 4WD crossing a ford
Vlad in the 4WD crossing a ford

Back on the road, more curves, more bumpy tracks, more rivers crossed, including the Rio Savegre. I was in awe in front of a tree next to a house by a bridge crossing the Rio Savegre. A tall tree bare of leaves but full of pink blossom. Here, see:

Big tree with pink blossom by a river
Big tree with pink blossom by a river

Before and after the big city of San Isidro the road kept winding and climbing, except that after San Isidro, it was called a highway. That is, one lane each, limited speed of 50 Kph, with many big trucks that drove well above the limit, in both directions. We passed through small villages, watched the very green pastures, forests, in the sun and above clouds.

Mountain road side, mountains and clouds
Mountain road side, mountains and clouds

Then we were in the clouds. Around 6 p.m. the clouds around us had a pink or orange glow. It was eerie.

Purple haze
Purple haze

We climbed some more, and soon were at the highest point, 3360 meters, and we understood the glow ealier. On our left there was the most amazing sunset we had ever seen. High as we were, there were mountains underneath, each valley filled with thick white clouds, the summits emerging, and above us there were several layers of clouds that the sun was colouring in deep pink, bright orange and red. Here, see:

El Cerro de la Muerte, sunset
El Cerro de la Muerte, sunset

We were late, but never mind, really. Soon after the pass, we drove downward, took a left and drove, in the dark, on a bumpy track during 9 kilometers (how long? Between thirty and forty minutes) and we reached Savegre Hotel de Montańa.


See my Flickr album (241 photos).

Costa Rica: Catarata de Cortés, Tarcoles crocodiles, Manuel Antonio National Park

We left the Arenal area and set to drive for a good while under the sun, for a change.

We stopped by the side of the road as Vlad spotted monkeys in a tree, spider monkeys.

Spider monkey
Spider monkey

Spider monkeys
Spider monkeys

We made quite a detour to see the Catarata de Cortés, the prettiest waterfall I ever saw.

Catarata de Cortés
Catarata de Cortés

In its vicinity there was a little pool of water where no tourist was, that was populated by lizards, one of which was really big, grey, and crested from head to tail, possibly a basilisk.

Basilisk
Basilisk

We didn’t stay long as there was driving to do, but Vlad took a dip. On the road again, we quickly saw the change of vegetation and scenery as we were driving south. Less forest, more plaines.

Sloth sign
Sloth sign

Guanacaste tree and horses
Guanacaste tree and horses

We were in Tarcoles, our next stop, around 4 p.m. This place is famous for its long bridge under which many crocodiles rest.

Crocodiles on the sand
Crocodiles on the sand

Crocodile
Crocodile

Crocodile immersed
Crocodile immersed

We even saw an iguana.

Iguana
Iguana

We had a little more than two hours of daylight and hit the road again to reach a place between Quepos and Manuel Antonio. We arrived a bit after dark which comes a half hour after sunset. And then there was thunder and rain.

Fast forward to next day, a rainy day, but the one day we could visit the Manuel Antonio National Park. In a tree right next to our room there was a howler monkey.

Howler monkey
Howler monkey

We were advised to take a guided tour as only a guide could show us animals on this rainy day, but we didn’t feel like being with a guide and preferred being on our own, taking our time. We didn’t regret that choice. We saw so many animals!

A deer, a toucan, woodpeckers, a bird big as a pigeon with a red chest and a striped tail, butterflies, dragonflies, an urubu (red-headed vulture), hermit crabs, crabs, spider monkeys, a bird of prey which was all black, a female capuchin carrying her baby and which let us follow her for a while in the forest –a most magical experience!– and finally, a female sloth.

A deer
A deer

Toucan
Toucan

Woodpecker silhouette
Woodpecker silhouette

Hermit crab on grey sand
Hermit crab on grey sand

Dragonfly
Dragonfly

Black vulture
Black vulture

Halloween crab
Halloween crab

Capuchin monkeys, mother & young
Capuchin monkeys, mother & young

Capuchin monkeys, mother & young
Capuchin monkeys, mother & young

Pale-billed woodpecker
Pale-billed woodpecker

Three-toed sloth
Three-toed sloth

Three-toed sloth
Three-toed sloth

The Park also had lovely beaches. Vlad went in the water (I forgot my gear). As I was on the sand, I saw two raccoons.

Heart-shaped rock on beach
Heart-shaped rock on beach

Manuel Antonio beach
Manuel Antonio beach

Espadilla beach, Manuel Antonio
Espadilla beach, Manuel Antonio

Espadilla beach, Manuel Antonio
Espadilla beach, Manuel Antonio

Raccoons
Raccoons

The park closed at 4 p.m. It was still raining. We rewarded ourselves with drinks and a late lunch of snacks. I chose a mango rita, the most delicious cocktail I ever tasted.


See my Flickr album (241 photos).

Costa Rica: Arenal volcano, Arenal Hanging Bridges

The Arenal volcano is supposed to be active, although not to the point that there is lava flowing or explosions. What we saw is a lot of cloud activity around it! But on two occasions, the summit was clear enough that we saw the shape of it, and we distinguished two sources of fumes, like thin streams of clouds, except they were going in opposite direction from the clouds.

Arenal volcano
Arenal volcano

We’re staying at the Arenal Observatory Lodge. From the deck that faces the volcano, we tower above a lovely garden, that many animals inhabit. Mostly birds –including hummingbirds, toucans and oropendolas–, but also a coati or two and a couple of great curassows.

Birds feeding
Birds feeding

Yesterday we walked on a few of the trails around the lodge, reaching a river with old lava, a hanging bridge, a waterfall.

Lava stone pile
Lava stone pile

Today we went to the Arenal Hanging Bridges, a park of 600 acres of rainforest with 6 hanging bridges and numerous regular bridges, a trail of 3 kilometers (1.8 miles) that we “achieved” in slightly over 4 hours (possibly a world record of unspeed).

Vlad on a hanging bridge
Vlad on a hanging bridge

We saw a blue ara in the parking area. It flew noisily above us and landed close to us. Then it posed on top of a fence and even let us stand quite close.

Ara
Ara

Inside the park we saw lizards, ants, a few birds, two black squirrels, insects (not a lot, thankfully, there was one, somewhere between the ant and the wasp, that was as big as a little bird. Eek).

On the way back we stopped next to a field where cows were grazing. Or rather a breed of cows. They looked like zebus with ears like those of donkeys. Their head was very much like that of Jar-Jar Binks, in fact.

Jar jar binks cows
Jar jar binks cows


See my Flickr album (241 photos).

Costa Rica: La Paz waterfall

The visit to Volcan Poas almost happened. We drove on tracks and bumpy roads, passed through clouds and when we reached the entrance of the park, the cloud we were in was so thick that we made a U turn and went somewhere else instead. A wonderful place, La Paz waterfall gardens. In retrospect it’s too bad we wasted time earlier.

Mist
Mist

Highlights of La Paz waterfall gardens: walking in a giant aviary –including walking where toucans fly, seeing many kinds of snakes –including some of the most dangerous ones of Costa Rica, I walked among a myriad of butterflies, and of course the waterfalls.

Toucan, close-up
Toucan, close-up

Morpho, close-up
Morpho, close-up

Puma face
Puma face

We continued on bumpy roads and pretty good roads, but also very shaky ones (Vlad got to push the 4WD button on the dashboard) for 2.5 hours to reach the Arenal Observatory Lodge.

Tree
Tree

We arrived a bit after sundown. The Arenal appeared enshrouded in clouds too, I see a pattern here. We’ll see tomorrow if we see it. We’re here three nights. There are numerous hikes. But now, there is sleep to be had.


See my Flickr album (241 photos).